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Saturday, May 28, 2011

Train Trip to Oslo: Part III The train ride home.

After sunning and people-watching, I found a nice seat inside the terminal in which to sleep.  I was so nervous about missing my train, however, that I awoke every 10 minutes to hear the announcements over the public address system.  I can tell you without hesitation that "due to work on the railroad line, the train to Halden has been replaced by a bus that you can board to the right of track 19.  The bus will only make stops at Fredrikstad, Sarpsborg and Halden.  Thank you."

I boarded my train early.  It is reserved seating and I had reserved a window seat.  On the way out of town, the train stops at the Oslo International Airport. Quite a few boarded the Trondheim-bound train including a young American man from San Diego, who had the seat behind me.  He was on his way to visit HIS sweetheart in Trondheim.  They had met at San Diego St. U.;  she was an exchange student.

The young man was exhausted.  He had started his journey in San Diego.  His route was SD to Seatlle, then Icelandic Air to Keflavik . . . uh oh.  Flight canceled.  He had to overnight in Seattle, then he was rerouted through Charles de Gaulle on Air France.  The plane was delayed several hours and the poor guy missed his connection to Oslo.  He stayed at the airport in Paris all night.  He flew to Oslo the next morning and now he was on a 6 hour train to Trondheim.  Nice guy.

What follows are random photos from the train:






Friday, May 27, 2011

Train Trip to Oslo Part II: Oslo

Oslo has changed since I spent half a summer there in 1973 to learn Norwegian.  The "wharf" area has been totally renovated and now features restaurants and shopping malls.  The Central Train Station did not exist back then.  In 1973 Oslo did not have the large immigrant population that it now has.  There were no Burger Kings, McDonalds or T.G.I. Fridays. 


Flowers abound everywhere!


Victorian Architecture amid steel and glass

Underneath the Victoria building -- shops and this Starbuckian Coffee House


My Breakfast:  Coffe and a Cinnamon Roll 
 Is Oslo expensive?  The cup of coffee and the cinnamon roll cost 57 kroner.  At today's exchange rate it cost $10.50!  We report.  You decide.

It was a beautiful day in Oslo.  According to Google Maps it is a 1.7km, 22 minute walk from the train station to the American Embassy.  The walking route goes along Karl Johans Gate, Oslo's main street that goes past the Norwegian Parliament (Storting), the National Theater and ends at the Royal residence which is surrounded by a beautiful city park.


The Royal Residence


Fountain Near the National Theatre


Karl Johans Gate
The embassy is not far from where I ate "breakfast".  It is heavily guarded and barricaded.  When I was walking up the street (a busy thoroughfare) toward the embassy, three police cars pulled up and stopped in front of the embassy.  Then a black BMW SUV pulled up.  Suddenly there were three police officers standing guard at the closest intersections near the embassy building.  They had automatic weapons.  Their fingers were on the triggers (I'm not kidding!).  Then, from around the corner came 3 black SUVs.  The police officers stopped all traffic, including a trolley car (electric light rail train), while the embassy security opened the gate to allow the three vehicles to enter the embassy compound.  We are not in Beirut.  We are in Oslo!  It is no wonder that the US is building a new embassy outside of downtown Oslo.  It must be very disruptive to the City to have the embassy stopping traffic all day long.

I approached the visitor's gate and rang the bell.  A guard came out and asked what I needed.  I told him.  He told me I could not come in with my backpack.  He was very gracious and almost apologetic.  He suggested that I take it to t he 7-11 store about 100 meters away.  They store backpacks for 25 kroner ($4.50) and apparently do a very good business! 

So, after dropping off my backpack at the 7-11 I came back and went through security that was similar to airport security.  Once inside the consular staff were pleasant and helpful.  It only took a few minutes to get my affidavit stating I was free to marry in Norway.  It cost $50.

After the embassy appointment I walked around the park and then went back toward the train station.  The station is close to the harbor.  It was a very nice day so I decided to walk down to the harbor just to see the view. 


Sir Winston's Pub, Karl Johan's Gate


Wenche Foss, the Grand Dame of Norwegian Theater Died this year 


The Brand New Opera House on the Harbor

Strange Sculpture in the harbor and the boat to Copenhagen


Ferry Boat to Copenhagen:  Great trip by the way.


Lots of Refurbishing Going on all around Oslo.
By the time I was finished "sight-seeing" it was time for lunch.  I decided on "Indian" so I went to a very casual Indian restaurant near the train station.  The chicken tikka masala was excellent.  Lunch cost about 2.5X  what it would cost in Orange County.

After lunch I got some sun sitting on the steps of the plaza outside of the train station.  Many were doing the same.  It was fun to people watch.  The beggars (mostly East European illegal immigrants) were trying to solicit anyone who would make eye contact with them.  Advice to beggars in Norway:  Concentrate on professional single women under 30 years old.  They are the only demographic I have seen throw any money into your cups.  Advice to Norwegian parliament:  Make panhandling illegal, or regulate the panhandlers -- require beggars to get licenses.  Norway has a very generous safety net, low unemployment and great social services.  The only reason for begging in Norway is if you can't qualify for services because you are here illegally.  Just my opinion.

Next post:  The train ride home.

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Train Trip to Oslo

As I mentioned before, I had to go to the American Embassy in Oslo to get proof of my eligibillity to marry.  I decided to go by train for two reasons:  1) It was cheap (about $80 roundtrip); and, 2) I wanted to be familiar with the trip so I could advise visitors from the US whether to take the train.  Conclusion:  It's a nice trip - pretty scenery, relaxing and comfortable.  And cheap, if you purchase in advance and online.

I took the night train from Trondheim to Oslo -- this I do not recommend, unless you are willing to pay for a sleeping compartment -- which I was not.  The train leaves Trondheim at 11:05 p.m. and arrives in Oslo at 6:45 a.m.  I tried to sleep in my seat -- more room than a coach airline seat, but less comfortable than a bizclass seat.  I could not get comfortable.  Finally, at about 2 a.m. I went to the "dining car" and sat in a booth drinking coffee and watching the scenery pass by.  The dining car is basically a little better than a miniature 7-11 store as far as food goes; quite different from the linen-tableclothed, menued, servered diner that Amtrak supplies on the Coast Starlight from LA to Seattle.  But the diner is pleasant.

The scenery on the trip to Oslo was quite nice, but it wasn't really light enough to take good pix until about 4 a.m.

4 a.m. coffee



two hours north of Oslo

Next Post:  Oslo.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

May 17 - syttende mai - Norway's National Day

Prior to 1814, for several centuries, Norway was part of Denmark.  But Denmark was on the wrong side in the Napoleonic Wars, while Sweden was an ally of Great Britain.  As a result, in January 1814, as part of the settlement declared in the Treaty of Kiel, Denmark was forced to cede Norway to Sweden.  Nobody asked the Norwegians what they thought about being part of Sweden.

On May 17, 1814, Norway's Constitution was signed at Eidsvoll.  The document among other things established Norway as an independent nation.  The Norwegians didn't ask Sweden what they thought about Norway's declaration of independence.

Norwegian Constitution Signed at Eidsvoll
The Swedes were not pleased.  Without going into historical detail, there was a very short war, followed by another treaty in which Norway kept its constitution, but agreed to enter into a "personal union" with Sweden.  The union was dissolved in 1905 and the Norwegian parliament elected Prince Carl of Denmark (married to Princess Maud of Wales - daughter of the English King) as King of Norway.  Carl took the name of Haakon VII.

Norway celebrates May 17 as its National Day.  There are parades, particularly school-aged children, but also adult clubs and music corps parade through the cities and towns.  People really dress up for this day.  Many wear traditional costumes that differ by region (like Scottish tartans differ by clan).  These costumes are called "bunad".  I think they are beautiful and I like the idea of treating the day with respect by dressing up.  As you look at the following pictures pay attention to the crowds of people watching the parade go by -- notice how they are dressed.


Early Morning Patriotic Music at Our Neighborhood

Dog Bunad!

Main Plaza in Trondheim

Flag at Our Townhouse

Are you going to share?

Ole Morten and Unn (wearing a beautiful bunad)

Note the clothing




One of many marching bands

Trondheim held a World's Best Moustache contest





One of many dance clubs



One of many martial arts clubs




I qualified for this one:  New Immigrants!




Geek Club


Viking Club







After the parade, we visited Tante Gerd and Onkel Einar.  Then we picked up Kitty and brought her home for a lasagna dinner, followed by cake and coffee.  Then it was off to the airport to take Ole Morten and Unn to catch their flight home to Oslo.  It was a great visit and a very nice holiday.